This season, Paris spoke the language of legacy. Without gimmicks, without attempts to shock - just a confident and mature understanding of how to develop its own DNA while staying true to the spirit of the present.
Saint Laurent
This time, Saint Laurent showed how a brand can remain recognizable yet alive. Amid hydrangeas that filled the runway space, the clothes felt like a continuation of the atmosphere - slightly bohemian, slightly nostalgic, but with a clear modern line. Broad shoulders, bows, jewelry - all not as archival citations but as a natural evolution of the beauty Vaccarello has been crafting for several seasons. It wasn’t a breakthrough, but rather a confident statement: Saint Laurent knows who it is and isn’t afraid to simply be beautiful.
Dries Van Noten
This season, Dries Van Noten once again did what he does best - made color sing. Julian Claussner assembled a palette where yellow wasn’t an accent but a mood. Polka dots, florals, psychedelic motifs - everything blended, yet never chaotic. It was a collection that balanced refinement and courage, ornament and space. In the embroidery, prints, and construction, you could feel the hand of someone who knows how to make complexity harmonious.
Dior
Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior was loud yet restrained. He didn’t try to surprise with form - rather, he wove together history, aesthetics, and his own signature. The collection featured clear archival references while holding the same viral potential Anderson naturally brings with him. Everything looked cohesive - elegant, confident, precise. Accessories stood out as their own force: bags, jewelry, shoes - meticulously thought out, commercial yet aesthetically flawless. It was Dior that doesn’t play to the crowd, yet inevitably commands attention.
Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann delivered exactly the Tom Ford debut everyone wanted to see. The collection conveyed his understanding of body, line, and sensuality - without showiness but with powerful energy. Shimmering fabrics, nods to the 90s, subtle references to Ford’s archive - all crafted into a sharp, assured composition. Ackermann feels natural in this house: not imitating, but continuing, adding his own sense of refinement and control. The fit was impeccable, every gesture deliberate - a rare case where expectations meet reality.
Maison Margiela
Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela Ready-to-Wear was an act of attentiveness to the brand’s history. Rather than reinterpreting the archives, he literally unearthed designs that were once created but never seen. Now they walked the runway - shoes, a box-shaped bag, thigh-high boots - pieces that once existed only as sketches or prototypes. The collection carried the house’s codes: tape imitations, clean lines, intentional imperfection. The most striking gesture - metal staples in the models’ mouths - directly echoed the four stitches of the silent logo. This time, that silence spoke - in the language of legacy.
Loewe
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s debut at Loewe was both recognizable and alive. They preserved the spirit of the house while playfully experimenting with forms and silhouettes, creating pieces with effortless viral potential. The footwear, crumpled textures, and gentle deconstruction stood out - all in balance, never excessive. The result was a bright, modern, and visually delicious collection - made to be worn and shown off.
Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons once again left no doubt about their approach: the collection was unapologetically avant-garde, with forms that astonish and inspire. Each look seemed ready for a museum - so deliberate and precise in execution. Seams, silhouettes, details - all masterful, carrying a sense of theatre and art that remains exclusive yet universally moving. It was one of those rare moments when niche artistry becomes power, turning a show into a true artistic experience.
Ann Demeulemeester
Stefano Gallici at Ann Demeulemeester returned to his signature formula - grunge and romance - this time with bursts of color. Military jackets came back as key pieces, ready to become a trend. The collection felt melancholic yet alive in its details, born directly from the designer’s inner world. The execution was flawless - fabrics, silhouettes, and textures worked in harmony, creating a mood that resonates and invites interpretation.
Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut at Balenciaga was both measured and sincere. He didn’t rewrite the codes of his predecessors - from Balenciaga to Nicolas Ghesquière and Demna Gvasalia - but instead blended them into one organic collection. It felt coherent: evident references, but no overload, and pieces that looked truly wearable. Piccioli proved that it’s possible to make a strong statement about heritage while staying relevant and practical, showing a Balenciaga ready for real life.
Chanel
Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel felt like a true reboot for the house. The set design was flawless - it set the mood without stealing attention, instead enhancing the essence of the clothes. Finally, the Chanel woman can leave behind the aging grey tweeds and wear something fresh, elegant, and unmistakably Parisian. It was one of the strongest debuts of the season: a renewal that honors the house’s legacy while making it vibrantly modern.
This Paris Fashion Week proved that major fashion houses are confidently working with their heritage while translating it for today’s world. The collections felt balanced, elegant, and refreshed, with deep attention to detail and silhouette. The season leaves a sense of harmony between tradition and modernity, showing that a fashion house can evolve and stay true to itself.
